Before you read this post, first observe the platform wedges I’m wearing in this picture. Then consider that I walked 4 miles in them. Now think to yourself, “Respect.”

From Café du Monde to Magazine/Harmony St (the bus stop from hell).


After some solid tromping from the canal, we hit the Arts and Warehouse District. Our first stop was the welcome oasis of The Soda Shop, a cute, old-timey place connected to the WWII Museum. They make their own original sodas in-house. I got nectar; Rachael, honey-apple. Perfect for our parched traveler’s throats.

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Next we walked a block off Magazine to hit the Ogden Museum of Southern Art.

It had an amazing collection. I loved this crazy rocking horse made of beads, chains, wheels, and whatever else

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Rachael and I quickly discovered we had very different tastes in art. I adored this funky cow painting and told her I’d totally hang it in my house- to which she candidly replied with gusto, “I wouldn’t let that near my house with a burning pole!” A bit of a mixed saying, but I got the message ha.


This was more her style, but didn’t do much for me.


But we both agreed that “Sit down shut your mouth” was a winner. Especially appropriate as it was painted on an old TV.


I liked that this sculpture was displayed in an atrium-like area.

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We both liked this story of a broken plate painted on a cabinet door, with bits of plate used for the mother and daughter’s clothing. The vignette itself was touching, but somehow the artist’s use of those mediums made it especially evocative.


Funky bejeweled cats and dog-

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This collage was already off-putting and severe, but the use of light and the protruding frame to cast shadows made it even more so.


This was dumb. All the figures are from famous paintings, but now they all have cell phones. Cool…. Not.


A great collection, but my favorite was the exhibit of Eudora Welty: Photographs from the 1930’s and 40’s. Her snapshot style really caught the life in her subjects.

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More cool folk art.

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Ogden was completely worth the visit and reasonably priced too at $8 for students. I loved it.

But our travels were just beginning. Upon exiting the museum, we first needed to add our admission stickers to this pole collection and appreciate these ridiculous biker-safety posters-


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That must have been a fun photo shoot.

We walked and walked and walked some more down Magazine, entering the Garden District. It was beautiful, the dappled light coming down through the trees to light the old antebellum houses. But there was also the murmur of conflict you could feel everywhere in the city. The cracked streets and crumbling facades evoked a quiet but distinct undercurrent of man versus nature.

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A short detour off Magazine brought us to one of the city’s famous aboveground cemeteries.


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Back on Magazine, we finally we hit the good shopping area. It was a mix of funky stores selling vintage clothes, quirky local art/jewelry, and antiques, along with cafes, bars, and restaurants.


Angry birds.


I like the cat that’s straight busting through a crack in the wall…


We found some great old jazz records.


Fun earrings.


I was digging the dentures.


This woman artist melted down Mardi Gras beads into lampshades and sun jujus. I liked these because they incorporated the voodoo and carnival flavor of New Orleans in a new, creative way, very different from the usual horribly tacky souvenirs.


These lights reminded me of jellyfish!


Sun Jujus

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There were shops specializing in calligraphy, signs, posters, and post-cards. I should note that all the shop keepers we spoke to were usually the artists themselves, and perfectly happy to tell us about their work or help us with directions. It made shopping even more fun to make a personal connection with the locals.

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There were also plenty of typical hipster items for sale, i.e. anything inexplicably decorated with a mustache. We even found temporary mustache tattoos.



If you needed your ironic religious paraphernalia, they had that too.


In typical hipster fashion, the shopping bag for my floral sunglasses is a cookie monster-cookie Ziploc. I liked it.


In the middle of all that shopping there was another welcome oasis: Sucre. They’re famous for specializing in hand-made chocolates, macaroons, and gelato. We shared a salted-caramel macaroon: delish. I got the peanut butter and fudge swirl gelato; Rachael got mango and basil-coconut. Smooth cold, and creamy: the perfect treat after all that walking in the sun.

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At the end of our trek, this is where shit got real. Real fucking annoying. We waited at this bus stop for 40 minutes, watching 5 buses go by in the other direction. Take a cab.

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Then back to our house to recuperate before nighttime adventures…

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